in indian rupees please mention the latest market price of all these digital cameras individually…..
please mention the latest price
See the link below to check the prices of various Nikon models in India. For D70 you'll have to look in the archives.
Nikon D80 -
Body: INR 52,950. Body with Kit: INR 70,950
Nikon D90 -
Kit: INR 83,950. Body Only: INR 64,950
Apart from these, you can buy from the grey market too at lower prices (but be careful in what you buy and think about the kind of service you require later on).
i have plan to take nikon d90 cam i have plan to take 28-300 lens with image stablizing i have doubt to take which brand lens is good TAMARON or SIGMA? and i like to know its autofocus also woking?bcaz i heared this cam is not supporting autofocus with tamaron 28-300 lens .and what kind of lens is good to use with nikon d90? pls help me
thanks
When you are shooting long focal lengths, there is a change that you will get blur from camera shake if you are not using a tripod. So stabilization in the lens is important and could set the Tamron ahead of Sigma.
As far as I know, the Sigma 28-300mm does not have stabilization.
There are two versions of the Tamron 28-300mm – and you will probably want the VC version (which has stabilization).
If you are purchasing a brand new Nikon D90, there is a package where it comes with a Nikon 18-200mm VR lens. I would rather have this Nikon lens than either the Sigma or the Tamron. The difference between 200mm and 300mm might be important for a nature photographer who cannot get close to animals; but for a traveller or general purpose photography… if you need to get a tighter crop, I would just walk a little closer.
I would also budget for a tripod, polariser filter, and carrying bag for it all.
Posted by admin | Under Nikon D90
Tuesday Jan 20, 2009
We just got a nikond90 and don't really know how to use it yet! When I use the no flash it's blurry most times and when I use the flash it's too bright. I want to use the flash that looks like I'm not using flash. How do I do that? I just want a quick tip..
1. To reduce the number of "blurry" photos, do two things.
A. Set the ISO of the camera (light sensitivity) to a higher number when shooting indoors or in the evening). Choose an ISO number like 800-1600. To do this, hold down the ISO button on the back of the camera, while rotating the rear command dial.
B. Learn to hold the camera properly. Too many beginning photographers just grasp the camera body, letting camera movement ruin a great shot. Hold the camera body with your right hand (firmly grasping it, with your forefinger over the shutter button). Place your left hand beneath the lens with your thumb away from yourself. Learn to stand with one foot slightly behind the other. This provides a very stable platform for your camera and counteracts the natural movement of the photographer. Squeeze, don't mash, the shutterbutton when shooting.
2. To adjust the power of the built-in flash follow these steps from Ken Rockwell's website:
"Flash Bolt +/- Button (right side of flash hump as seen from front) top
Press this to pop up the flash.
This button also sets the flash sync mode and the brightness of the flash. Flash brightness is more formally called "flash exposure compensation."
Press and hold the flash button and turn the front dial to change the flash exposure compensation. This sets the brightness of the flash. + makes the flash brighter, – makes it dimmer. This setting only changes the brightness of the flash while leaving the background (ambient) exposure alone. Set it to – if your subjects are getting washed out. If you run out of flash power beyond 10 to 20 feet, then setting it to + can't make the flash any brighter.
If you set flash exposure compensation to anything other than zero, you'll see a little "+/- bolt" icon in the finder and on the top LCD and INFO panel. This resets when you do a green reset.
Press and hold the flash button and turn the rear dial to change the flash sync mode. You'll see the mode shown on the top LCD (and INFO panel) in the box with the bolt."
I'd suggest printing off this handy user's guide, to compliment your owner's manual.
http://kenrockwell.com/nikon/d90/users-guide/index.htm
For better flash photos, invest in an external Nikon flash such as the SB400, SB600, or SB800. I find my SB600, when tilted to bounce light off the ceiling, or when coupled with an inexpensive deflector, provides flash pictures that look "flashless".
Most of all, experiment. Take pictures at different settings and review them on the camera's lcd screen. You learn the most by doing, so shoot away!
p.s. A photography class would be great, and a good photo guide book can be very helpful. But remember, you don't learn to drive by reading a driver's manual. You learn behind the wheel.
Technique whores:
Lenses = Sigma 10-20mm and Nikkor 50mm 1.4
1) Turn AE-Lock function on to stop the crappy banding and exposure changes throughout the image
2) Use a tripod
3) Try this http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~johnny/steadycam/
AF-S NIKKOR 50mm f/1.4G is lens ive considered any others which would be better
First, a disclaimer: I am fanatical about fast lenses and constant aperture zooms. The following is based on those criteria.
For low-light, non-flash photography its all about lens speed. Therefore, the 50mm f1.4 should be your first choice. If money is an issue, go for the manual focus one.
A second choice would be either the 24-85mm f2.8 or the 70-200mm f2.8 but they are 2 full stops slower than the f1.4 lens. In low-light, non-flash photography slow is bad.
With all due apologies to Mary-K, her suggestions are simply way too slow for what you want to do. All 3 are f3.5-5.6 lenses. At f3.5 the lens is 2 2/3 stops slower than an f1.4 and at f5.6 its 4 stops slower than an f1.4.
Lets look at a hypothetical chart to see the actual f-stop/ISO/shutter speed relationship:
ISO 400
f1.4 @ 1/125 sec.
f2 @ 1/60 sec. (-1 stop)
f2.8 @ 1/30 sec. (-2 stops)
f3.4 @ ~ 1/20 sec. (-2 2/3 stops)
f4 @ 1/15 sec. (-3 stops)
f5.6 @ 1/8 sec. (-4 stops)
ISO 1600 (+2 stops)
f1.4 @ 1/500 sec.
f2 @ 1/250 sec.
f2.8 @ 1/125 sec.
f3.5 @ ~ 1/80 sec.
f4 @ 1/60 sec.
f5.6 @ 1/30 sec.
As we can easily see f1.4 is the low-light winner, allowing a lower ISO and still achieving a fast shutter speed. The f2.8 lens is usable if you don't mind ISO 1600. A lens with an f-stop range of f3.5-5.6 is clearly unsuitable for low-light, non-flash photography unless you use ISO 3200 and even then (based on our chart) at f3.5 your shutter speed would be ~ 1/160 sec. and at f5.6 1/60 sec.
Posted by admin | Under Nikon D90
Monday Jan 12, 2009
Product Details: This is a Hi-Capacity® high performance replacement Duracell 7.4 Volt Li-Ion digital camera battery (Rectangular battery with three contacts on end.) for your NikonD90. Our NikonD90 compatible batteries and power adapters are designed with the finest components available.
I decided to purchase the fresh 18-270mm lens manufactured by Tamron:
http://www.tamron.com/B003special/index.html http://www.tamronlenses.net/
But on the other hand, I think to obtain Nikkor lens, because I’ve Nikon DSLR.
http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/nikkor.htm
Any Advices and Suggestions,
Thanks in advance.
You didn’t already purchase the Tamron did you? Image quality can get very bad on the shorter and longer reaches of that lens.
If you want good glass, good image quality, cheapish, and still have some reach, go for the 18-135 VR.
And if you bought the camera with the kit 18-105 lens then you should probably look into the Nikkor 70-300 VR.
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